It was on my inaugural European escapade in my 20s that I first set foot in Ireland's famed Ashford Castle--an 800 year old Victorian fortress, now-turned five-star luxury hotel. I snapped one photo while inside, feeling nervous and out of place like a fish out of water.
A decade later, I find myself greeted by name and a tip-of-the-hat by Michael, the guard manning the outer entrance. Afternoon tea was the order of the day, followed by a short visit with the immensely talented Paula Stakelum, Director of Chocolate and Pâtisserie at Red Carnation Hotels, the current custodians of Ashford Castle.
What a difference a decade makes.
With the unparalleled warmth of Irish hospitality and the exceptional pastry and chocolate work of Paula and her team, my second visit to Ashford Castle was unforgettable. If you ever find yourself on the West coast of Ireland, set aside an afternoon to treat yourself to tea.
© 2026 Lauren di Matteo