One great highlight from our time in Florence includes an afternoon relaxing in the Piazza della Signoria (next to the Uffizi Gallery). While we sat people-watching under the historic arches of the Loggia dei Lanzi, we began to hear a distant, rhythmic rumble. As it made its way nearer the square we realized it was in fact a mob of protesters chanting in unison. The man beside us, whom we dubbed a reporter, unconvincingly reassured us that it was just some kind of demonstration. But what exactly is the difference between a demonstration and a riot, when multiple armored cars full of police in riot-gear pull up and block off two of the entrances to the square? Watching them pour out of vehicles was like watching a circus act. How did all of those police officers fit inside that one vehicle?
A number of tourists cleared out of the square, and while we were a bit nervous about our safety, none of the locals seemed to be running from danger, so neither did we. It was a nice dose of good ol’ fashioned excitement. Eventually the irate mob retreated from one blocked off entrance, but moments later we heard them at another one and that is when a booming voice over a loudspeaker seemed to rile them up all the more.
With the chanting mob now out of sight, the wave of excitement receded and we decided to make our way over to Ponte Vecchio to watch the sunset. Although, not without first learning that the police had apparently blocked off all entrances to the square in order to protect the public in case the mob turned violent. All the while they failed to encourage anyone within the square to exit. Grazie, polizia di Firenze, I feel so protected.
As evening turned to night, we managed to find a hole-in-the-wall place to eat full of middle-aged, male, blue-collar workers. It was an enjoyable, inexpensive two-course meal of artichokes, ravioli, orecchiette, and meatballs. We shared our wine with the gentlemen next to us and they returned in kind by giving us both a rose before we left, while communicating with smiles and a few words in Italian. The only thing that could make the day more complete would be to stumble upon a piazza filled with locals eating, drinking, playing foosball, and listening to a live band. Yes, of course that‘s what happened.
© 2026 Lauren di Matteo