Island Life

Procida // Italy

By Lauren di Matteo

WRITTEN BY NICOLE BRAVO

It was a short ferry ride from Naples to Procida, and thankfully smooth sailing for my often queasy self. This beautiful island in the Bay of Naples is a popular vacation spot among Italians (rather than foreigners), and provided the most enchanting experience of true Italian island life.

Stepping off the boat, we were greeted by charming aged buildings towering above, decorated with laundry blowing freely on the breeze. The streets were so tiny and narrow that vehicles could barely pass each other and did so with mirrors pressed against the side of their cars, those who still had mirrors, that is.

The sun seemed to gradually dawdle along, in no hurry to make its circuit here; and the Procidians matched its slow, steady pace.

We had grown accustomed to the afternoon riposo (midday siesta) in Rome, but had to adjust to the change here. Since the heat was so intense this year, everyone spent the hottest hours of the day in the water rather than at home; especially since air conditioning is a very rare commodity on the island. While the days were marked by sweltering heat, the calm, tepid seawater provided a welcome relief to us all.

Around 4 p.m. the crowds would begin clearing out as many went home for a nap and a shower before dinner; the departing boats creating a few small waves for us to enjoy.

As the sun neared its final descent toward the horizon, locals would begin pouring into the streets again, on foot, electric bicycle, or scooter, to enjoy the most beautiful part of the day.

While our host recommended a couple of places to eat, Da Girone was the most popular restaurant on the southern side of the island by far, so we didn’t venture anywhere else—for four days! Their pizzas, pastas, appetizers, and—best of all—seafood, were amazing! At every meal, lunch and dinner, we longed to have room to order just one more dish.

In the evenings, as the wine was pouring and flatware clanging, Girone himself would come out to provide a little dinner entertainment. Wandering from table to table like a comedian in a silent film, he would gesture wildly with the most absurd facial expressions, confusing anyone with whom he interacted. Once, I saw him sit on a man’s lap while making eyes at his date, and moments later approach Lauren, speaking absolute gibberish, while attempting to win kisses from her. A man of many talents, his restaurant made a special imprint on our memories and our palates.