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Memphis

blues, booze & bbq

By Lauren di Matteo

Memphis is famous for several things, among them Elvis Presley, BB King, and the birthplace of blues music and BBQ--the Memphis variety, of course. I was fortunate enough to visit while on assignment in the spring and actually had some time to explore.

Now I remember the first concert I ever attended was as a seven-year-old—Johnny Rivers at the Colorado State Fair. While riding high on my dad’s shoulders, I belted out every word of the song “Memphis” right along with him. Twenty-five years later, walking these streets, a tiny dream is realized.

Morning view from my flat located in a historic building in downtown Memphis.

Memphis

Memphis

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Memphis

the arcade restaurant

This diner was opened by Greek immigrant Speros Zepatos in 1919. Three generations later it’s still being run by the same family. Elvis ate here often. Movies have been filmed here. Sweet potato pancakes are a must.

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Memphis

Memphis

Making friends on the trolley.

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Memphis

Motel where MLK's life ended, now home to the National Civil Rights Museum.

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Making friends everywhere, actually.

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Memphis

gus's fried chicken

Only the best fried chicken I have ever eaten....ever.

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Memphis

Memphis

Note the single slice of thick white bread under the chicken...

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Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

DELTA TAMALES

Unfortunately, I didn't hear about 'Detla Tamales' until after I had finished my lunch, but I was able to coerce my server into plating a few for this photograph. I couldn’t get a definitive answer as to how this dish made its way into the Mississippi Delta, but it's very popular among the older generation. Perhaps a story to investigate another day.

Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

rendezvous bbq

The short story of Rendezvous BBQ:

After a disagreement with his brother-in-law and co-owner of Whimpy’s in 1948, Charlie Vergos moved into the restaurant’s basement and started his own operation. After installing a smoker, he began selling simple sandwiches. Seventy years later, the menu’s expanded to serving charcoal ribs, sausage, pulled pork, etc. Because the meat is smoked over charcoal instead of wood, many would reject it as authentic BBQ. Nonetheless, it's a Memphis institution. Go.

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Memphis

beale street blues

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Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

These guys were amazing--The King Beez: http://www.thekingbeez.com/

Memphis

Memphis

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Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

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Memphis

And finally, true, Memphis-style BBQ.

Memphis

Memphis

Memphis

© 2026 Lauren di Matteo

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a workshop visit with Ellis White

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no-till ecological market garden

put down the mirror & pick up the barbell

The Art of Couscous

Moroccan Cuisine

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