We’ve been traveling throughout Western Europe for weeks and are in need of a few days to relax and slow our pace a bit, so we take a train to the German countryside: Saxony. Our little Airbnb sits alongside the winding Elbe River with a view out to the small town of Pirna, nestled atop the hill. The location is perfect, as are our daily walks along the river.

One afternoon we notice a man wearing a mask, carving a large stone block in front of a historic home. We stand there amazed at the labor that goes into building a small retaining wall by hand. He doesn’t seem to mind us gawking at him though and finally waves hello. A short conversation ensues as he introduces himself as James Lehmann, master stonemason who has worked on new and historic buildings like this one all around town. He currently lives in Dresden, just a stone's throw away, but loves getting away to the countryside—after all, he grew up here. With a dreamy look in his eyes, he describes how peaceful it is in the country and what a delight it was to spend his childhood years here.

After telling him of our recent travels, he rattles off a slew of complex German words, asking us if we have come to see 'them.' We half-nod with blank stares, and he realizes we haven’t heard of the litany of famous sites and castles dotting the vicinity. Admitting that we know little of the area, we share our disappointment when our host responded to our questions about the region by dropping us off at the Tourist Office. At this, a look of near-devastation dramatically sweeps across his face as he considers that this amazing place won’t be fully explored and enjoyed to the extent that it deserves. His eyes search frantically for some sort of resolution, and he finds it by offering an invitation to join him and his girlfriend on a drive around the countryside in exactly one hour. When we hesitate in crashing his date, he insists, and of course, we delightfully accept.

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a workshop visit with Ellis White

the art of hand-forged steel

at Cong's Ashford Castle

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put down the mirror & pick up the barbell

Moroccan Cuisine